Waltham author shares local history and scones in new brunch cookbook

Local food writer Tammy Donroe Inman has a new cookbook coming out this spring called “New England Brunch.”

It’s the latest in a series of culinary achievements for the Waltham resident. 

Inman’s cookbook career began after her blog “Food on the Food” gained popularity, initially producing her two cookbooks, “Wintersweet” and “New England Desserts,” which are focused on using local and seasonal ingredients. 

“New England Brunch” expands on those previous publications’ sweet theme while also incorporating savory elements and vegetables.

“When people think about New England cooking, they have a tendency to think of stodgy, old-fashioned Yankee cooking,” Inman said. “It can easily be updated to be exciting and have global influences, because we are such a culturally diverse group here in New England.”

The publication will feature classic recipes such as blueberry buttermilk pancakes and Boston cream doughnuts alongside modern takes on classics such as asparagus frittata and Brussels sprouts and pancetta hash. There is also a selection of seasonal drink recipes such as peach berry sangria and mulled pumpkin cider.

The cookbook is organized into sections based on season. 

Celebrating culinary diversity

There is also a bonus chapter focusing on dim sum, which Inman is especially excited about. 

“Going out to dim sum for me as a college student was the cheapest way to get a whole lot of good food, and Chinatown has a really interesting history. Chinatown right now is in danger of being completely gentrified, so I wanted to celebrate the contributions of the Chinese, Taiwanese and Cantonese communities and their excellent brunch options,” Inman explained.

The chapter features dim sum staples such as scallion pancakes and spring rolls alongside recipes involving traditional Chinese vegetables.

A unique facet of “New England Brunch” not found in other cookbooks is the historical context included behind the recipes.

“The early fusion cuisine with Native American ingredients and British Colonist influences are the basis of what we call New England cooking,” Inman said. “For example, baked beans have roots in Native American cooking. It was also a Colonial dish, but the Native Americans used maple syrup in their beans and cooked them underground.” 

A variation on this dish has become what New Englanders now call baked beans.

“New England Brunch” is available now for preorder and will be officially released on April 1. 

Until then, you can try Inman’s scone recipe, which uses a squash that was developed right here in Waltham.

Butternut squash and sage scones

These scrumptious scones bridge the gap between sweet and savory. They’re a great use for butternut squash, which was developed at the former UMass Agricultural Field Station in Waltham (now the site of Waltham Fields Community Farm). For instructions on how to make your own squash puree, see the author’s note below (or use canned). 

Servings: 8

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground sage

1 teaspoon table salt or fine sea salt

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces

½ cup squash (or pumpkin) puree

½ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

Fresh sage leaves, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Grease a 12 x 17-inch baking sheet or line it with parchment paper.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar, sage and salt. Process the mixture for a few seconds to blend. Add the cold butter and process for 15 to 20 seconds, until the butter pieces are the size of small peas. (You can also cut the butter into the dry ingredients with a pastry blender or your fingers.)

Add the squash puree to a large bowl and gradually whisk in the cream. Dump the flour mixture from the food processor into the bowl. Fluff with a fork until it all comes together into a shaggy dough. Turn it out onto a floured surface and, with floured hands, fold the dough over on itself several times until it holds together. Transfer the dough to the prepared pan. Gently pat the dough into a ¾-inch-thick disk. Cut it into eight wedges like a pizza. Brush the tops of the scones with melted butter. Brush the fresh sage leaves with melted butter and press them on top of each scone. Pull out the scones slightly so they’re about 1 inch apart.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the tops brown and the centers of the scones are set. Remove the pan from the oven and let the scones cool on the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature. 

The scones can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for two to three days.

Author’s Note: To prepare fresh winter squash for baking, halve the gourds and set them cut side down on a large, lightly oiled, rimmed 12 x 17-inch baking sheet. Roast in a 375°F oven for 45 minutes to an hour, until soft. Let them cool slightly, then scoop out the seeds and discard. Scrape the flesh out of the skins and puree in a food processor until smooth. Drain in a colander set over a bowl for at least one hour, preferably overnight, to remove the excess liquid.