Waltham wine notes: High five to Maple + High’s wine list

When the striking black and gold sign went up for the long-awaited Maple + High barbecue spot on Moody Street, we were startled by the tagline “Fire. Barbecue. Bourbon.” Our first thought was, “Bourbon’s not our jam. Let’s hope there’s a decent wine list.” Barbecue and wine may not seem like a natural go-together, but we’ve had great success over the years pairing a wide range of wines with ribs, wings, cornbread and slaw. So when Maple + High opened at last, we made a beeline for the bar and checked out the wine list. What we found should satisfy wine lovers everywhere, if they know where to look.

The ample list includes 14 wines by the glass, a generous selection of red, white, rosé and sparkling. Alongside a number of well-known producers such as Obsidian, La Crema and Kim Crawford, there are lesser-known pours from smaller wineries in Oregon, California and Sardinia. While some of the wines seem ill-suited to pair with bold, tangy barbecue, we were mindful that Maple + High’s upscale comfort food menu also includes burgers, fish, chicken pot pie and salads. A “something for everyone” menu calls for a varied wine list.

If, like us, you’re in it for the barbecue, here are our four favorite wines.

With the cornbread

The insanely delicious (and, at $16, somewhat pricey) Honey Jalapeno Cheddar Corn Bread is accompanied by a giant roasted bone marrow. The dense, somewhat piquant cornbread pairs beautifully with a dry Provencal rosé. The 2025 Chateau Routas is a blend of cinsault, grenache, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. Crisp and fruity, with aromas of watermelon and berries, it cut right through the rich cornbread. Another good pairing was the 2022 Obsidian Volcanic Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, with its bold, black plum aromas and black cherry, black pepper and intense minerality on the palate.

With the ribs 

When the half rack of pork ribs falls off the bone and leaves a saucy smile on your face, who cares about the wine, right?  Well, it does make a difference, and we recommend Obsidian (again!) Triple Junction 2025. It’s a crazy-quilt blend of nine white grapes (primarily viognier and albarino) from 14 volcanic vineyard sites in California and Oregon. Lots of citrus and crisp acidity, it gracefully powered through the ribs.

With the pulled chicken

The pulled chicken was perfectly prepared, but what blew us away were the sweet potato fries. Crisp, moist and plentiful – the ideal side dish for the pungent chicken. Our pick for this dish is the 2024 Antigal Uno Malbec from Argentina. A little spicy, a lot of berries and plums, and oh so smooth.

A couple of nits to pick on the wine list: Each description should include the vintage and the region, not just the country of origin. But overall, a great first pass on a large and diverse selection. For the next pass at the list, we’d love to see a bold Australian Barossa Valley Shiraz or a French Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Gigondas, each of which would bring out the richness of the food at Maple + High.