Say ‘Sí’ to Spanish Wines at Solea

We have been fans of the Spanish eatery Solea since it opened in 2001, when tapas was still an exotic food trend and sharing small plates was an adventure in dining. Fast-forward a quarter-century and patatas bravas and gambas al ajillo are now part of the foodie lexicon. Tapas bars have sprouted all over Greater Boston, but OG Solea has stayed vital, with an innovative young chef, Viviana Acevedo, a shorter, more adventurous menu, and an inventive wine list that travels across Spain to Uruguay, Chile, and Argentina. 

If your first instinct when ordering tapas is to say, “I’ll have the Sangria,” Solea offers a slew of interesting alternatives. On a recent visit, we sampled some new menu items, washed down with a couple of glasses of Spanish wine: a dry white blend from the Penedès region in Catalonia and a vibrant Garnacha from the Sierras de Málaga in Andalusia.

If you prefer white wine, the Huguet de Can Feixes Penedes Blanc ($14) is a blend of native Catalan grapes and a little Chardonnay. A flowery nose is followed by flavors of green apple and pear, with a hint of limestone. The acidity stood up well to the coli flor — crispy cauliflower with sweet mojo rojo scallions — and the zanahorias glaseadas, an outrageously delicious glazed carrot dish with goat cheese crema and toasted almonds.

If red is what you fancy, Jorge Ordóñez’ Málaga’s Botani Garnacha ($12) had alluring aromas of black fruit jam and mocha, complemented by black cherry/blackberry flavors on the palate. We loved it with a warm corn soup and the arroz mar y tierra (short ribs and shrimp with onions, pepper and rice).

If your packed schedule doesn’t permit a trip to Spain, Solea can still transport you to that sun-drenched nation.